Reawakening Through Story: Kendu Bay's Lost But Unforgotten Dreams
This year, we celebrated 62 years of independence from the British colonial regime on June 1, a day we affectionately know as Madaraka Day. I had the pleasure of spending a delightful weekend in the breathtaking Lake Basin region of Kenya, where I reconnected with cherished old friends. The experience stirred a wave of reflection and nostalgia within me.
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| Dunga Beach Kisumu County |
As I gazed at Kenya's stunning landscapes, I couldn't help but feel that they hold the secrets, whispers, and timeless tales of our ancient history. From the majestic heights of the mountains to the serene expanses of the lakes, every corner seemed to echo larger-than-life legends and profound life lessons that have shaped our culture.
I came to realize that our rich heritage is not merely preserved in the dusty archives of museums or buried in historical texts. Rather, it vibrantly thrives in the fabric of our daily lives, intricately woven into the lively tapestry of oral traditions, captivating local folklore, and the dynamic popular culture that forms the very essence of our national identity.
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| Views of ‘Nam Lolwe’ the real name colonisers baptised Lake Victoria |
What does true independence mean, I pondered, if we fail to gaze back and reclaim the greatness etched in the rich tapestry of our landscapes?
Our adventure was made possible thanks to our wonderful friend, Vivian Kobe, the visionary behind Viba Explore Tours, award winners of the MEA Markets’ Africa Excellence Award - Recognising Trailblazers in Inclusive & Sustainable Travel 2025. She graciously offered us an enchanting tour of her ancestral home, Homa Bay County, where my partner and I immersed ourselves in its breathtaking beauty and vibrant culture.
As we journeyed towards Homa Bay from Kisumu, we were greeted by the majestic River Nyando, flowing gracefully through the expansive Kano plains. Along the way, we passed sprawling fields of fragrant, long-grain rice paddocks; their lush emerald green contrasting with the rich, black cotton soil that serves as a testament to the resilience of the local people. They have learned to navigate the river's unpredictable temperament, braving its floods that can obliterate everything in their path. It’s no wonder that the mighty River Nyando has found its way into the vibrant melodies of Kenyan cheering songs and chants: “River Nyando is NOT navigable…”
During our journey, I was reminded that Kendu Bay in Homa Bay County is home to the enchanting Lake Simbi, a locale that once captured the imaginations of many Kenyan households, thanks to the comic series “Pichadithi,” popular in the 80s and 90s. Created by Terry Hirst, these magazines wove together traditional myths and legends from across Kenya, bringing them to life through a rich visual narrative that connected deeply with our oral heritage.
Lake Simbi Nyaima, a stunning crater lake nestled near Kendu Bay, is an extraordinary natural marvel, characterized by its lack of inlet or outlet. Its highly alkaline waters discourage fish, yet they provide a thriving sanctuary for a kaleidoscope of birdlife, including graceful flamingos and the striking Egyptian geese. It’s an undiscovered jewel for birdwatchers and nature enthusiasts alike. If you take the opportunity to visit, be sure to seek out local guides who are eager to share their knowledge and recount the lake’s history and lore, enriching your experience.
The serene surface of Lake Simbi Nyaima rests where a bustling village once thrived, now steeped in enigma. According to local legend, an old woman, weary from her travels, arrived seeking shelter and sustenance from the villagers, only to be cruelly rebuffed and denied the kindness she deserved. Unknown to the community, this was a test of character. The old woman possessed mystical powers and unleashed a devastating curse that eradicated the village in a torrential downpour, resulting in the profound depression we now know as Lake Simbi Nyaima. This story serves as a poignant reminder of the values imparted through generations via oral literature, underscoring the cultural significance of compassion and hospitality.
Coming face-to-face with Lake Simbi Nyaima for the first time was a moving experience, bringing to life a place that had previously existed only in the realms of storytelling and the vivid imagination of our childhood.
One of the most moving experiences I had during this trip was visiting Kendu Bay and immersing myself in its rich history. Standing on the old pier beneath a brooding sky heavy with the threat of impending rain, I could almost hear the echoes of a vibrant past. This once-thriving gateway welcomed steamers and ships from as far afield as Uganda and Tanzania. Sadly, today all that remains are its ruins—a poignant relic of its former glory.
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| The old Kendu Bay Pier |
Before the onset of colonial rule, the Lake Victoria region—and especially the areas surrounding Kendu Bay—was a bustling trading hub. The Luo people, the dominant ethnic group in Kendu Bay, were adept at transacting with long-distance caravan traders. They engaged in a vibrant exchange, trading ivory, animal skins, and gold harvested from the interior for exotic treasures such as colorful beads, firearms, reflective mirrors, and fine textiles.
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| Sites of Kendu Bay overrun by Water Hyacinth |
My curiosity led me to discover that locally-sourced salt from a place called Kaksingiri emerged as a crucial trade commodity. Initially, this exchange occurred through a simple barter system but gradually evolved to incorporate cowrie shells and later small copper coins. This transition speaks to an emerging economic sophistication within the community.
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| Kendu Bay beautiful stunning views |
The historical presence of robust trade laid the groundwork for deep-rooted connections and a trading ethos that continues to define the identity and livelihoods of those living along these ancient routes. I found myself delighted to learn that indigenous trade systems such as these were profoundly intertwined with a respectful and harmonious relationship with nature—a relationship built upon traditional ecological knowledge, sustainable practices, and an appreciation for natural cycles. Such practices not only sustained but also nurtured communities, standing in stark contrast to the extractive and often exploitative characteristics that would later define colonial and capitalist models of economic development.
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| Kendu Bay - dreams lost but not forgtten |
The early 20th century marked a period of significant growth for Kendu Bay, transforming it into a prominent trading center. There are stories of Arab traders like Nyasoro who established a presence in the area and built a mosque in 1904. The integration of trade with community and religious development was a common feature. Studies also revealed how Indian traders played a crucial role in the thriving economy, operating numerous supply shops that stocked household commodities and hardware materials.
The British colonial administration's influence, however, proved a double-edged sword. While they introduced cash crops like cotton in Karachuonyo in 1903, leading to the establishment of the first cotton ginnery in Kendu Bay, this was part of a broader imperialist agenda. The colonial authority and chiefs often used force to compel cotton growing, prioritizing raw material extraction to enrich and expand the British Empire and its textile industries—to our detriment, and often at the expense of local food and traditional farming pathways. This shift from traditional, diverse farming practices—which were regenerative and in harmony with nature—to a monoculture cash crop system that degrades our arable land and reduces biodiversity continues to plague the current Kenyan agricultural sector. It promoted extractive, neoliberal, and exploitative structures of power that proved detrimental to the local flora, fauna, and the rights and freedoms of the colonized people native to the land, who were stripped of their ancestral land and coerced into providing free or cheap labor. As arable land became increasingly scarce, cash crops took center stage at the expense of food production for local consumption, which fundamentally contributed to altering the sacred indigenous relationship with the land and its resources.
The ginnery in Kendu Bay processed substantial amounts of cotton, with exports—however exploitative—forming a significant portion of the port's trade. Fishing, particularly omena fishing, also saw rapid development and economic growth, drawing both men and women into the trade.
Thus, this old pier I was standing on became a vital port and a lifeline for steamers and ships, connecting Kendu Bay to distant regions like Uganda and Tanzania and solidifying its status as a major regional trade hub. Kendu Bay's economic vibrancy fueled rich socio-cultural dynamics. It became a cosmopolitan Luo town, infused with a blend of cultures through intermarriage and trade. It was even dubbed the ‘entertainment capital of Nyanza,’ attracting musicians from far and wide. Religious diversity flourished, with Islam and Christianity planting roots. Yet, this introduction often came with tension, pressuring converts to abandon traditional beliefs, many of which were frequently deemed ‘backward.’
Kendu Bay's unfortunate decline wasn't singular; it was a complex web of environmental, economic, and political factors. The invasive water hyacinth paralyzed lake transport, ceasing pier operations by the early 1980s. The cotton industry collapsed. The National Cereals and Produce Board depot closed. The critical blow came in the 1990s when the main Homa Bay-Kisumu Road was diverted, bypassing the old town. This seemingly minor infrastructural shift—some convinced it was a punitive political consequence of the residents' rejection of district headquarters status—profoundly impacted the town, shifting focus and investment elsewhere. The exodus of Indian traders also due to insecurity, coupled with a decades-long lack of formal banking, choked local business. Informal, predatory lenders, often called ‘Shylocks,’ preyed on the financially vulnerable.
Today, the old town feels ghost-like. Rusty roofs, crumbling walls, and abandoned markets stand silent, echoing forgotten laughter and bustling trade. The ginnery stands as an eyesore, a tangible scar of what once was. These ruins are not merely symbols of lost dreams; they are a vital historical record and a unique cultural asset that cries out for recognition and reclaiming.
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| The New Kendu Bay |
The decline spurred relocation, forming ‘New Kendu Bay Town’—a testament to the community's resilience. And in 2024, after decades of waiting, the first bank branch (KCB) finally opened in Kendu Bay. This pivotal moment addresses a major historical impediment, stimulating local businesses and moving away from exploitative informal lending. Challenges persist. Large processing factories often disadvantage small-scale fishmongers. Water hyacinth remains a threat. Kendu Bay faces competition from thriving neighboring towns. Any revival must be carefully managed to ensure benefits are equitably distributed.
I am left with the nagging question: could this inspire renewal by avidly reclaiming, restoring, and paying homage through heritage tourism and restoration of trade and transport?
When all is said and done, Kendu Bay's story is not one of irreversible decline, but could potentially be viewed as a powerful testament to the cyclical nature of growth and renewal. I have always believed that by understanding and learning from our past, we can transform the future.
That said, the current challenges to overcome would be formidable. This includes attracting investment to counter the ingrained legacy of neglect. A true reawakening requires an acknowledging of the past failures and dismantling the structures that continue to perpetuate them.
I wonder if the residents of Kendu Bay could be inspired by its rich history to chart a new course that sees it flourishing once more.
While on the road trip we got excited suggesting some ideas that the town can explore to place it back on the map:
- Establish a Living Museum in Old Town and Boost Local Tourism: After all, the rich past offers endless possibilities for heritage and ecotourism, which could empower local communities, women, and youth through alternative livelihoods.
- Develop Lake Simbi Nyaima Ecotourism: The unique crater lake Simbi, for example, with its birdlife and local legends, can be developed for ecotourism, offering the community to take lead as guided tours and develop immersive cultural experiences.
- Harness Local Craftsmanship & Repurposing Water Hyacinth: The Luo people are skilled weavers, creating beautiful baskets and woven products from natural fibre. It was encouraging to learn that local craftsmanship found ways to harness water hyacinth as a weaving medium. This local innovation turns an environmental challenge into economic opportunity and, in the process, helps clear lake navigation routes.
In the past year, I’ve been incredibly inspired by the energy and creativity of Kenya’s Gen Z and Alpha generations. These young trailblazers are redefining the landscape of civic engagement, harnessing digital platforms to mobilize grassroots movements against pressing issues like the Finance Bill 2024. Their activism is refreshingly 'party-less, tribe-less, and fearless,' focusing on systemic change rather than individual personalities. They are resilient, less susceptible to co-option, and masterful at maintaining momentum for their causes. Their demands for accountability mark a transformative shift in Africa, positioning them as powerful allies in fostering community-led development in places like Kendu Bay.
Imagine the collective impact of Gen Z using their digital skills to crowdfund for a heritage project in Kendu Bay or leveraging their activism to advocate for essential infrastructure improvements in the area.
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| The Hammerkop Bird - Kenya is a bird watchers paradise |
Their motivation is rooted in collective prosperity, not personal gain; they are dismantling the structures of oligarchy and corruption that persist in our society. We have already witnessed their powerful influence echoing throughout Africa as they champion democracy, transparency, and accountability, engage in environmental activism, organize community clean-ups, and raise awareness about civic processes, empowering citizens to demand a better Kenya.
The path to resurgence lies in a holistic approach: understanding the unique history, embracing ecological innovation, promoting community-driven heritage tourism, and—most importantly—empowering Kenya's conscious youth.
Kendu Bay's restoration offers profound lessons about economic fragility and resilience. The remnants of its past serve as powerful reminders of what once was and what is yet to come. By confronting its history, fostering a spirit of pluralism, and dismantling corrupt practices, Kendu Bay can rise again as a beacon of hope. Together, we can create a future where human rights, freedoms, cultural diversity, and natural resources are truly valued and celebrated—a proud testament to our national and African identity.
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| Sunset in Homa Bay County Against a popular road sign known for its cheeky wordplay in Dholuo. |
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